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Cut. The cut is the only factor that has been
determined by a human being. A skilled diamond cutter can bring out the brilliance
of a stone, making cuts that reflect the maximum amount of light inside the stone
and up through the face of the diamond. The cutter aims to produce a perfectly symmetrical
stone whose right and left sides are mirror images of each other. A wonderful stone
can be ruined by an unskilled cutter. An Ideal Cut Diamond is the term used to describe
a round, brilliant diamond with 58 precisely placed cuts, proven to reflect the
greatest amount of light. A Premium Cut Diamond is also highly prized, symmetrical
and reflective, but is not quite as perfectly cut. An Inferior Cut Diamond has been
cut to retain the maximum weight of the original, uncut stone since this yields
a higher carat number. Cutting may either be too deep or too shallow, causing light
to reflect out the bottom of the stone and reduce its brilliance. Polishing of the
diamond is also grouped under the "Cut" heading and can affect the grading
scale of the cut. A well-cut, symmetrical diamond can be downgraded if poorly polished.
The American Gem Society (AGS) Diamond Grading Scale grades diamonds from the rare
ideal cut which scores a 0, to the most inferior cut which scores a 10.
Color. Reputable jewelers keep a set of Master stones
in their store. This is a set of real diamonds displaying the full range of stone
color. It is difficult for the untrained eye to tell the color of a particular stone,
and the Master stones can help. Again, the AGS ranks the stones from 0-10, in .5
increments with 0 representing the most highly prized colorless stones, and 10 labeling
the inferior quality diamonds which possess hues of yellow or brown.
Clarity. To the general public, the idea of "flaws"
in a diamond determine its value. However, the word "flawed" implies certain
deficiencies in the diamond, which are actually naturally occurring features within
the stone. It is more accurate to discuss the number of "inclusions" within
a certain stone. Almost every stone, even those of the highest quality, has some
inclusions. The clarity of each stone is ranked either on a 0-10 scale by the AGS
or a more complex scale by the GIA.
Carat weight is the final criteria used to determine the value
of a diamond. Jaws drop when people brag about the 2 carat diamond they purchased.
In reality, the stone’s value is determined by its color, clarity and particularly
its cut, as well as its carat weight. An inferior cut 2 carat diamond with a color
rating of I2 and a clarity rating of 7.0 is worth much less than a colorless, ideal
cut diamond with no inclusions. The carat weight of the diamond you purchase should
be of less concern than the other factors influencing its quality.
That said, the carat weight of the diamond does have a considerable effect
on the price you’ll be charged. It is important to be sure that the weight
the jeweler quotes you is accurate. Reputable jewelers such as AGS and GIA members
will use electronic scales capable of determining weights as small as .002 of a
carat. Naturally, they should weigh the diamond that has not been fixed into a ring.
Ask your jewelers to show you how they weigh diamonds. If they’re reluctant
to do this, consider this as another red flag and move on to another dealer.
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